Light

When growing under fluorescent light you will learn that experience, not what you find in books, is your best guide to appropriate brightness for a particular plant. Keep in mind that most recommended foot candle numbers in publications refer to peak sunlight periods, i.e., the max of varying natural light in a day, and are really recommendations for greenhouse growing. Because the foot candles of artificial lighting are constant, the amount needed from dawn to dusk is much less than the peak sunlight figures indicate. It can mean as much as 2,000 foot candles less. You will burn your plants if you use the foot candles recommended for greenhouses, guaranteed. The plant will tell you if it has too much light: stunted growth, lots of pigmentation in leaves, and stiff, hard leaves are all warning signs. Lighting in the Orchidarium is controlled by the lamp fixture you choose, by where you place the individual plant in relation to the lamp, and by the addition of strategically placed pieces of shading material (see Accessories) under the fixture.

Among the Orchidarium models are options for single-, double-, or triple-lamp fixtures that offer varying ranges of light within the units (see illustrations). Measured in foot candles this fluorescent lighting may provide low, medium or high overall light.

The low light of 350 foot candles is a good starting point for most seedlings, most masdevallias, phalaenopses and paphiopedilums, pleurothallids, and aerangis. Medium light (600-800 f.c.) will serve most cattleyas, some laelias and dendrobiums, ascocentrums equitant oncidiums and sophronities. The high light of 900-plus f.c. is appropriate for rupicolous laelias, some ecyclias, some dendrobiums and vandas.

In general, any range of fluorescent lighting calls for the following seasonal adaptations in length of daylight: Spring, 13-14 hours; Summer, 16 hours; Fall, 13 hours; and Winter, 11.5 hours. Because many orchids are photo-periodic, they need increased or decreased light to send out flower spikes (Some species flower in response to changing temperature).

The lamps themselves each have a life expectancy of about two years. Each fixture is UL-registered. The efficiency of the reflector, rated at 95% reflectivity, ensures maximum effectiveness . Its angles are computer-calculated to augment the light down the side walls of the shell. Plants that love high light do very well on slabs and drip-shelves placed close to the light fixture.

Temperature

The temperature in the Orchidarium derives from the ambient temperature of the room in which it is placed and the heat generated by both the lamp and the ballast of its light fixture. A warm ballast offers a minimum of 5 degrees and a maximum of 15 degrees over ambient temperature (with triple lamp). Appropriate for warm growers, it is needed in cool homes in winter. A cool ballast, 0-4 degrees over ambient temperature (with double lamp), is appropriate for cool growers. We recommend a maximum summer temperature for warm to intermediate plants of 85 degrees. For cool to intermediate plants a summer high of 75 degrees. You may need an air-conditioned room or a cool basement to maintain these maximum guidelines.

When the lights are off at night, the temperature slowly drops to the ambient temperature. By adjusting the vent slots, you regulate the diurnal temperature range for your selected plants' best performance. In addition, roof, ceiling and door venting can capture or release the heat from the light fixtures as needed. The digital temperature/hygrometer sensor allows you to monitor day and night temperatures, in both Fahrenheit and Celsius. (See illustration).

Humiditiy and Air Movement

Water held in the bottom tray and sponge (see Accessories) maintains humid conditions. Also, themore plants you have and the more you mist and water them, the highter the humidity will go (we open and close our doors at 1/8 inch increments to regulate humidity). You can further regulate humidity by venting the air through the roof and ceiling openings of the case. The temperature/hygrometer sensor reads the humidity. Mounted inside the case, it displays the numbers clearly. Because the sensor records high and low readings, you may remove it and review those highs and lows that have occurred since your last check/reset.

You can expect noticeably increased root growth and vigor within days of placing your plant in the Orchdarium. We maintain between 60% and 80% humidity in most of our units.

The fan creates the continuous air movement your plants need. From its position on the ceiling, it circulates 50 CFM in the Fiji, and 75 CFM in the Maui and the Borneo (the grating of the shelves allows for total circulation). The fan is UL-registered and grounded for your protection. With a life expectancy of 6.7 years of continual use, ball-bearing construction and an attached foliage guard, this is a quality cooling fan. Removing the foliage guard will further incrase air movement.